Munich – Day Trips & Excursions : Baroque & Rococo in Pfaffenwinkel

Pfaffenwinkel is a classic
alpine foothill region. Gently sloping hills and verdant pastures
alternate with forests, fens, and small lakes. Geographically, the
region is bounded by the Lech, Ammer, and Loisach rivers, and by the
southern end of Ammersee and Starnberger See, reaching all the way to
the Ammergauer mountains. It is known for its abundance of Baroque
monasteries and Rococo churches, such as Benediktbeuern and Wieskirche,
characterized by the style developed at the world-renowned stucco school
at Wessobrunn. The name of the region comes from the words “Pfaffen,”
which is local dialect for priest, and “Winkel” for corner. Natural
beauty abounds in Pfaffenwinkel, with its gorges such as Ammerschlucht,
romantic mountain lakes such as the deep, dark blue Walchensee, high
mountains with lovely vistas, and lonely fens. By car, the region is
reached from Munich via motorway A95 or regional roads B2 and B11. There
are also excellent rail and bus links.


Wessobrunn Stuccowork

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the most
important stuccowork masters came from around the monastery at
Wessobrunn. Johann Schmuzer (1642–1701) is regarded as the founder of
the Wessobrunn school. The Schmuzer, Zimmermann, and Feichtmayr families
spread its fame throughout Europe. Stucco masterpieces are found in the
monasteries and abbeys of Wessobrunn, Ettal, Rottenbuch, Weingarten,
Zwiefalten, Ottobeuren, Bad Wörishofen, and Steingaden.


Freilichtmuseum Glentleiten

Upper Bavaria’s largest open-air museum opened in
1976 in the beautiful foothills of the Alps between Murnau and Kochel.
An old Bavarian village has been set up here – with original farmhouses,
mills, a pottery, workshops, and other farm buildings. There’s also a
restaurant with beer garden.

  • Open Apr–Nov: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun, except Jul–Aug: 9am–6pm daily.

  • Adm.


  • www.glentleiten.de






Dießen, Ammersee

For information on Pfaffenwinkel, visit www.pfaffenwinkel.de or www.pfaffenwinkel.net


The Wessobrunner Prayer is engraved on a boulder in front of the local inn, the Gasthaus zur Post.


Munich composer Carl Orff (1895–1982) set parts of the medieval Carmina Burana to music in 1937.


The canyon-like Ammerschlucht (between Saulgrub and Peißenberg) is a rafter’s paradise. The Schleier waterfalls is a highlight.


Sights

  1. Kloster Wessobrunn

    In
    the 17th and 18th centuries, Wessobrunn was the centre of the art of
    stuccowork. Masterbuilders of monasteries and master stuccoworkers
    trained here, including Joseph Schmuzer (1683–1752) and Dominikus
    Zimmermann (1685–1766), who went on to build and decorate many of the
    monasteries and churches in southern Germany in the Baroque manner.
    Wessobrunn stucco became famous around the world through the work of the
    Schmuzer and Zimmermann families. Part of the monastery, including the
    gallery in the Fürstentrakt and Tassilo hall, is open to the public.


    One of the oldest German-language manuscripts, the Wessobrunner Prayer,
    dating to around 800, was once held in the monastery’s library. It is
    now part of the Bayerische Staatsbibliothek’s collection in Munich.

    • 0 88 09 9 21 10

    • Open Mar–Oct: 10am–3pm & 4pm Tue–Sat, 3–4pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 3pm Tue–Sat, 3pm & 4pm Sun


    • www.kloster-wessobrunn.de

    • free




    Rococo interior, Kloster Wessobrunn

  2. Hoher Peißenberg

    At
    an elevation of nearly 1,000 m (3,300 ft), the Hohe Peißenberg is not
    only the geographical centre of Pfaffenwinkel, it also affords one of
    the most beautiful panoramic vistas in the Alpine foothills – the entire
    mountain range and the gently rolling hills and sparkling lakes at the
    foot of the Alps lie before you. Meteorological data have been recorded
    on the Hohe Peißenberg since 1781 – at first by Augustine choirmasters
    from nearby Rottenbach monastery (see Kloster Rottenbuch). Refreshments are available at the Bayerischer Rigi café, which features a large terrace.

  3. Kloster Steingaden

    In
    1147, the Premonstratensians built this monastery and abbey under Duke
    Welf VI. It was the most important centre of monastic life in Bavaria
    during that era. Surviving elements include the Romanesque cloisters
    with late Gothic vaulting and a Romanesque basilica, whose exterior form
    has been preserved. The abbey’s interior is highly ornamented in the
    Rococo style.

    • 0 88 62 2 34

    • Open 8am–6pm daily in summer, 8am–5pm daily in winter)


    • www.steingaden.de

    • free




    Romanesque cloister, Kloster Steingaden

  4. Wieskirche

    Known
    simply as the Wieskirche, the pilgrimage church Zum Gegeißelten Heiland
    in der Wiese near Steingaden (1746–54) is renowned as a prime example
    of German Rococo. It represents the work of Dominikus Zimmermann, the
    famous architect and stuccowork master from Wessobrunn, at his peak.
    UNESCO listed the church as a World Heritage Site in 1984.

    • 0 88 62 93 29 30

    • Open in summer 8am–7pm daily, in winter 8am–5pm daily


    • www.wieskirche.de

    • free




    Ornate Rococo interior of Wieskirche

  5. Kloster Benediktbeuern

    Benediktbeueren
    (739) is one of the oldest monasteries in the foothills of the Alps.
    Karl the Great’s acquisition of the arm relic of St Boniface elevated
    the monastery to the most important cult site of the saint in
    German-speaking countries. Built between 1669 and 1679, the Baroque
    monastery is still intact today. Kaspar Feichtmayr of Weilheim built the
    church with twin towers in the Italian late Baroque style. Famous in
    its time, the holdings at the monastery library included the Carmina
    Burana – the most important collection of medieval minstrel songs. The
    manuscript dates back to the 13th century and is now housed at the
    Bayerische Staatsbibliothek.

    Following
    secularization, the monastery complex was used for a time as a
    glassworks. At the beginning of the 19th century, it housed an institute
    for optics led by the famous optician and physician Joseph von
    Fraunhofer (1787–1826), who discovered the waves in the solar spectrum
    that were named after him. Today, the monastery accommodates institutes
    of pedagogy and theology of the Silesian Order.

    Kloster

    Glashütte

    • Open 9am–6pm daily

    • free

  6. Kloster Rottenbuch

    Founded
    in 1073 by Duke Welf IV, this monastery for Augustine Canons survives
    to this day. It features a rare blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Rococo
    architectural styles. In the mid-18th century, Joseph Schmuzer and his
    son decorated the interior with lavish stuccowork.

    • 0 88 67 10 08

    • Open 8am–6pm daily (to 7pm in summer)

    • free

  7. Kloster Schäftlarn

    Benedictine
    monks founded a monastery at this site as far back as 762. The
    buildings seen at Schäftlarn today were built in 1702–07 after designs
    by Giovanni A Viscardi. Consecrated in 1760, the abbey is considered a
    masterpiece of Bavarian Rococo. Much of the stucco decoration is the
    work of the famous Zimmermann family. The beautiful beer garden attached
    to the monastery is perfect for a small repast.

  8. Kochel am See

    At
    the centre of this popular lakeside resort stands a monument to the
    legendary blacksmith Balthes, a hero of the Bavarian peasant uprising
    against Austria in 1705. This was also where the painter Franz Marc
    lived and worked in the early 20th century. His home has been converted
    into a museum of his works and those of his friends in the Blue Rider
    group.




    View of Walchensee near Kochel am See



  9. Kochelsee & Walchensee

    About
    half of Kochelsee is surrounded by steep hills. Covering an area of
    just under 6 sq km (2.5 sq miles), the lake is 66 m (215 ft) deep in
    some parts. Excellent hiking paths run along its shores. A short
    distance to the south, and some 200 m (655 ft) higher, lies the
    blue-green Walchensee. Covering 16 sq km (6.5 sq miles) and with a depth
    of up to 190 m (650 ft), it is the largest and deepest mountain lake in
    Germany and, in summer, a windsurfer’s paradise. A cable car affording a
    glorious view of both lakes runs up to Herzogstand (1,750 m/5,700 ft).

    • Herzogstandbahn (cable car): Walchensee

    • 0 88 58 2 36




    Herzogstand and Kochelsee

  10. Schongau

    This
    picturesque town is located on a hill on the river Lech. A historic
    town wall with walkways, towers, and gates gives Schongau a medieval
    air. Altenstadt, 3 km (2 miles) to the north, was previously Schongau’s
    old centre before the town spread. It boasts the Michaelskirche, the
    finest Romanesque vaulted basilica in Upper Bavaria. Containing, among
    other treasures, a carved Romanesque font, the church was built in 1200.




    Romanesque font, Michaelskirche