Barcelona – Around Town : Eixample (part 1)

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If the Old Town is the heart
of Barcelona and the green mountains of Tibidabo and Montjuïc the lungs,
the Eixample is the city’s nervous system – its economic and commercial
core. The area began to take shape in 1860 when the city was permitted
to expand beyond the medieval walls .
Its design, based on plans by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerdà,
comprises hundreds of symmetrical grid-like squares. Construction
continued into the 20th century at a time when Barcelona’s elite was
patronizing the city’s most daring architects. Modernisme was flourishing and the area became home to the cream of Barcelona’s Modernista
architecture, with myriad elegant façades and balconies. Today, a
wealth of enchanting cafés, funky design shops, gourmet restaurants and
hip bars and clubs draws the professional crowd, which has adopted the
neighbourhood as its own.

Ildefons Cerdà

Ildefons Cerdà’s design for
the new city, comprising a uniform grid of square blocks, received
backing in 1859. Reflecting Cerdà’s utopian socialist ideals, each block
was to have a garden-like courtyard, surrounded by uniform flats. Real
estate vultures soon intervened and the courtyards were converted into
warehouses and factories. Today these green spaces are gradually being
reinstated.



Sights

  1. Sagrada Família

    Gaudí’s wizardry culminated in this enchanting, wild, unconventional temple, which dominates the city skyline .




    Spires, Sagrada Família

  2. La Pedrera

    A daring, surreal fantasyland, and Gaudí’s most remarkable civic work .




  3. Mansana de la Discòrdia

    At the heart of the city’s Quadrat d’Or
    (Golden Square) lies this stunning block of houses. Literally “the
    block of discord”, the Mansana de la Discòrdia is so-called because of
    the dramatic contrast of its three flagship buildings. Built between
    1900 and 1907 by the three Modernista
    greats, rival architects Gaudí, Domènech i Montaner and Puig i
    Cadafalch, the buildings were commissioned by competing bourgeois
    families. Domènech is represented by the ornate Casa Lleó MoreraCasa AmatllerCasa Batlló.
    All boast superb interiors: Casa Amatller runs tours of the vestibule
    but Casa Lleó Morera is sadly closed to the public. The lesser-known
    houses at Nos. 37 and 39 add to the overall splendour of the block. The Perfume Museum at No. 39 is heaven for scent-lovers.

    • Pg de Gràcia 35–45




    Windows, Casa Battló, Mansana de la Discòrdia

  4. Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau

    Still a fully functioning hospital, it was built in two stages from 1905 by Domènech i Montaner and his son. A tribute to Modernisme
    – and Domènech’s answer to Gaudí’s Sagrada Família – the sumptuous
    design comprises eight pavilions and various other buildings linked by
    underground tunnels. The pavilions, each different, recall the history
    of Catalonia with murals, mosaics and sculptures. Interlacing the
    buildings are gardens creating beautiful outdoor oases. The courtyards
    and gardens are open to visitors. Part of the Ruta del Modernisme .

    • C/Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167




    Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau

  5. Fundació Tàpies

    Paintings and sculptures by Antoni Tàpies (b. 1923), Catalonia’s foremost living artist, are housed in this early Modernista building . For a glimpse of what awaits inside, look up: crowning the museum is the artist’s eye-catching wire sculpture Cloud & Chair (1990). The collection of over 300 pieces covers Tàpies’ whole range of work, including impressive abstract pieces such as Grey Ochre on Brown (1962). Temporary exhibitions are also held here, with past shows by Mario Herz, Hans Hacke and Craigie Horsfield.

    • C/Aragó 255

    • 93 487 03 15

    • Closed for restoration; phone for details

    • Adm

    • DA

    • Free under 16




    Cloud & Chair sculpture, Fundació Tàpies






    Modernista hotel entrance

  6. Palau Macaya

    Designed by Puig i Cadafalch (1901), this palace is a fine example of the Neo-Gothic style in Modernista architecture. A magical, white façade is broken up by engravings and two towers. Of note are the decorative sculptures by Modernista
    sculptor Eusebi Arnau. The palace belongs to the Centre Cultural de la
    Caixa is closed at the moment; it is worth a visit to see the outside
    alone.

    • Pg Sant Joan




    Courtyard, Palau Macaya

  7. Fundació Francisco Godia

    Although
    Francisco Godia (1921–90) was best known for his prowess behind the
    wheel – notably as an F1 racing driver – his passions extended to the
    art world. His once private collection now forms this museum and
    encompasses a range of art from medieval times to the 20th-century: from
    Jaume Huguet’s altarpiece
    St Mary Magdalene (c. 1445) to a range of Spanish ceramics and works by 17th-century fresco-painter Luca Giardano.

    • C/Disputacio 250

    • 93 272 31 00

    • Open 10am–8pm daily

    • Adm

  8. Rambla de Catalunya

    This
    elegant extension of the better-known Rambla is a more up-market
    version. Lined with trees that form a leafy green tunnel in summer, it
    boasts scores of pretty façades and shops, including the Modernista Farmàcia Bolos (No. 77). The avenue teems with terrace bars and cafés, which are ideal for people-watching.




    Fountain, Rambla de Catalunya

  9. Universitat de Barcelona

    Until
    1958, this was the only university in Barcelona – today it is one of
    six. The graceful building (1861–1889) occupies two blocks of the
    Eixample and has a distinct air of academia. The interior gardens with
    their fountains and patios make for a cool, shady hideaway on hot
    afternoons.

    • Pl de la Universitat




    Interior courtyard, Universitat de Barcelona

  10. Museu Egipci

    Spain’s
    most important Egyptology museum houses more than 350 exhibits from
    over 3,000 years of Ancient Egypt. Exhibits include terracotta figures,
    human and animal mummies, and a bust of the lion goddess Sekhmet
    (700–300 BC).

    • C/València 284

    • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun

    • Adm