Gràcia
Until the end of the 19th century, Gràcia was a
fiercely proud independent city. Despite locals’ protests, it became
part of Barcelona proper in 1898, but has always maintained a sense of
separatism and has been a hotbed of political activity. It is now home
to a booming cottage industry nurtured by a growing band of artisans.
Don’t miss the barrio’s annual fiesta in the second week of August.
Exploring the Heights
Morning
Taking the northern route of the Bus Tourístic
is the easiest way to negotiate the vast northern area of the city; it
also gives discounts on entrance to major sights en route. Start off at
Plaça de Catalunya (tickets can be bought on board) and sit on the top
deck for a good view of the
Modernista magic along Pg de Gràcia. Make the whimsical Parc Güell
your first stop and spend the morning ambling around Gaudí’s
other-worldly park. Get back on the bus and continue north to the
southern end of Av Tibidabo. Walk about 500 m (1600 ft) up Av Tibidabo
and stop off for a leisurely lunch in the garden of the palatial
El Asador d’Aranda
.
Afternoon
After you’ve had your fill of fine Castilian cuisine,
continue strolling up Av Tibidabo to Plaça Doctor Andreu where you can
hop on the steep funicular train to go higher still to Plaça de
Tibidabo. Pop into the
Parc d’Atraccions
for a ride on the dodgems or the Ferris wheel. Then head to the landmark
Torre de Collserola
, where a glass elevator whisks you up to an observation deck for
spectacular views. Return to Plaça Doctor Andreu on the funicular and
treat yourself to a
granissat
) in one of the terrace bars. Then go down Av Tibidabo on the charming Tramvia Blau and catch the Bus Tourístic back to the city centre.
Gràcia Boutiques
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Naftalina
Of
all the cottage industry boutiques in Gràcia, Naftalina has the most
stylish interior – befitting the equally stylish, hand-made designer
clothes. Chic, elegant, understated women’s wear with an emphasis on
textured fabrics.-
C/La Perla 33
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Ninas
Nina, an American designer, sells simple, modern women’s clothes made from fine fabrics. The shop is housed in a gorgeous Modernista building which was once a butcher’s, and has a workshop at the back.
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C/Verdi 39
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Llena eres de Gràcia
For
gorgeous women’s fashions, accessories and evening wear at surprisingly
reasonable prices, try this colourful boutique. The clothes are very
wearable but most have a quirky twist.-
C/Ros de Olano 52
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José Rivero
José
provides his own original in-house creations for men and women; he also
sells crafted accessories, including handbags, by young local
designers.-
C/Astúries 43
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Multiart
This
fabric workshop sells colourful, hand-printed textiles, bedlinen, and
clothes for men and women. It also runs educational dress-making
workshops.-
C/Sant Joaquim 23
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Món de Mones
For colourful jewellery and accessories, try the ‘World of Monkeys’ (món de mones
in Catalan) near the Plaça del Sol. The designer, Teresa Roig, uses a
variety of materials from glass to felt to create her original designs.-
C/Xiquets de Valls 9
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Camiseria Pons
One of the oldest shops in this area, this men’s specialist shop sells shirts
by top Spanish and international designers, including Ralph Lauren.-
Gran de Gràcia 49
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Mushi Mushi
From
hard-to-find, small labels to the best international collections, this
pretty little boutique stocks a fine selection of women’s fashion. It
also offers a small range of shoes, bags and accessories.-
Plaça Rius i Taulet 5
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El Piano
El
Piano sells elegant and stylish women’s clothes with a retro flair made
by Catalan designer Tina García. It also stocks clothes by other
independent designers.-
C/Verdi 20 bis
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Zucca
One
of three branches in Barcelona, Zucca offers a superb range of
colourful fashion accessories. The stock includes plastic flowers for
your hair and stick-on navel rings.-
C/Torrent de l’Olla 175
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Gràcia Cafés
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Cafè del Sol
This
café-bar is a cut above the others in the lively, bohemian Plaça del
Sol. The atmosphere buzzes, the conversation inspires and the excellent
coffee keeps on coming.-
Pl del Sol 16
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DA
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La Cafetera
Of
all the cafés on Plaça de la Virreina, this one, with its outdoor
terrace and tiny patio full of potted plants, is easily the most
pleasant for a quiet and leisurely morning coffee and a sandwich.-
Pl de la Virreina
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Aroma
It’s
always a pleasure to smell the coffee being freshly ground at this
cream-walled and wood-beamed café. Hundreds of coffees to choose from,
with takeaway packets available.-
Travessera de Gràcia 151
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DA
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Vreneli
The
cosy Plaça de Rius i Taulet boasts four café terraces to choose from.
Vreneli is the most interesting one, with a mixture of Mexican, Swiss
and Spanish fare. No alcohol is served.-
Pl Rius i Taulet 8
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Closed Mon
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DA
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Blues Cafè
The
walls at this dusky, atmospheric café-bar are plastered with
black-and-white photos of John Lee Hooker and Leadbelly, among others.
The music, electric or acoustic, is always the blues.-
C/Perla 35
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Cafè del Teatre
This
is an ideal place to find a young, friendly crowd and good
conversation. The only connection with the theatre here seems to be the
velvet curtains on the sign over the door of this scruffy, but busy,
café.-
C/Torrijos 41
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Cafè de Gràcia
This
airy and spacious café, with salmon walls and mirrors, is an ideal spot
for a quick coffee away from the crowds. Service is speedy and a touch
more formal than most places in Gràcia.-
C/Gran de Gràcia 34
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Sureny
A
sophisticated addition to this square, Sureny is simple but stylish,
with a tantalizing selection of tapas and plenty of wines available by
the glass.-
Pl Revolució 17
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Closed Mon
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DA
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