Beijing – Around Town : North of the Forbidden City (part 1)

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By far the most rewarding area to explore on foot,
north of the Forbidden City stretches an almost contiguous run of lakes,
either set in parkland or surrounded by swathes of charming historic
hutongs. It’s an area rich in temple architecture and dotted with grand
old courtyard residences. Its appeal to visitors has resulted in
restaurants, bars, and shops flooding in to take advantage of the
picturesque settings, but thankfully much of the growth has so far been
sympathetic.

Confucius

Born in Shandong Province,
south of Beijing, during an age of uninterrupted war, Confucius
(551–479 BC) was prompted by the suffering around him to develop a
practical philosophy built on the principle of virtue. Finding no
audience among his native rulers, he embarked on a journey in search of a
ruler who would apply his rules of governance. He never found such a
person and died unrecognized.






Qian Hai

Top 10 Sights

  1. Bei Hai Park

    A
    beautiful example of a classic imperial garden, Bei Hai was a summer
    playground for successive dynasties that ruled from the neighboring
    Forbidden City. Today, it is well and truly open to the public, and
    thronged daily by locals who come here to socialize. There are a couple
    of small temples, a fine, small ornamental garden, and a noted
    restaurant. This is arguably the most lovely of Beijing’s many fine city
    parks .

  2. Hou Hai

    The
    most visitor-friendly neighborhood of Beijing, Hou Hai consists of
    three joined lakes surrounded by an expansive and labyrinthine sprawl of
    age-old hutongs
    (alleys). Visit for a handful of well-preserved mansions, as well as the
    opportunity to see a more humble form of Beijing life as it has been
    lived for centuries .




    Hou Hai bars



    Mahjong players at Hou Hai



    An exercise park beside Hou Hai

  3. Drum Tower

    Drum towers (gu lou)
    were once found in all major Chinese towns. They housed large drums
    that were beaten to mark the hour, keeping the city’s civil servants on
    time for work. There has been such a tower on this site since 1272,
    although the current structure dates to 1420. Visitors can clamber up
    the torturously steep steps to inspect some 25 drums and be entertained
    by a troop of drummers that delivers skin-thumping performances on the
    hour.

    • Gulou Dong Dajie

    • 6401 2674

    • Subway: Gulou Dajie

    • Open 9am–4:30pm daily

    • ¥20

  4. Bell Tower

    This
    dates from 1745 and replaces an earlier tower that burnt down. The
    great 42-ton (42,674-kg) bell it contains used to be rung to mark the
    closing of the city gates in the evening. During Spring Festival
    visitors are allowed to ring the bell for a donation of ¥100. The views
    from both the Drum and Bell Towers over the neighboring hutongs are well worth the exhausting climb.

    • Gulou Dong Dajie

    • 6401 2674

    • Subway: Gulou Dajie

    • Open 9am–4:30pm daily

    • ¥15




    Bell Tower

  5. Nan Luogu Xiang

    Less
    than 10 minutes’ walk east of the Drum Tower, Nan Luogu Xiang is a
    arguably Beijing’s hippest hutong. Still traditional in feel, the alley
    is home to quite a few small hotels, as well as several interesting
    clothing and craft boutiques, and an ever-increasing number of cafés and
    bars, including the excellent Pass By Bar.

  6. Xu Beihong Memorial Museum

    Set
    back from the road with a sign on top in green characters, and opposite
    a branch of KFC, this museum is dedicated to the man regarded as the
    founder of modern Chinese painting. It exhibits a collection of the
    lively watercolors of horses that made Xu Beihong (1885–1953)
    internationally famous.

    • 53 Xinjiekou Bei Dajie

    • 6225 2187

    • Subway: Jishuitan

    • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun

    • ¥10 (audio guide ¥10, plus ¥100 deposit)

  7. Former Residence of Mei Lanfang

    This
    was the home of Beijing Opera’s greatest ever performer (1894–1961).
    The rear rooms have been left with their traditional furniture as it was
    when he died. Others contain a hagiographic account of his life, as
    well as diagrams of the stylized movements required by the form and a
    video of Mei, already 61, but still playing the young girl roles for
    which he was famous.

    • 9 Huguosi Jie

    • 6618 0351

    • Subway: Jishuitan

    • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun

    • ¥10

  8. Lama Temple (Yonghegong)

    About
    a 30-minute walk east of the Drum and Bell Towers, or just a few
    minutes south of the Yonghe Gong subway station, the Lama Temple is
    Beijing’s largest working temple complex. It is filled every day with
    about an equal number of worshipers and visitors .




    Lama Temple

  9. Confucius Temple (Kong Miao)

    Just
    west of the Lama Temple, the Confucius Temple was built in 1302 during
    the Mongol Yuan dynasty, and expanded in 1906. Around 200 ancient stelae
    stand in the courtyard in front of the main hall, inscribed with the
    names of those who success-fully passed the imperial civil service
    exams. On a marble terrace inside the hall are statues of Confucius and
    some of his disciples.

    • 13 Guozijian Jie

    • 8402 7224

    • Subway: Yonghe Gong

    • Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily

    • ¥20

  10. Di Tan Park

    The
    park was named after the Temple of Earth (Di Tan), which was a venue
    for imperial sacrifices. The altar’s square shape represents the earth.
    These days, the park is always full of pensioners strolling, chatting,
    and exercising. A lively temple fair is held here at Chinese New Year.




    Di Tan Park

    • North of Lama Temple

    • 6421 4657

    • Subway: Yonghe Gong

    • Open 6am–9:30pm daily

    • Park ¥2; Altar ¥5