Beijing – Around Town : Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City (part 1)

The geographical, spiritual, and historical heart of
Beijing, Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City together represent a
yin and yang arrangement; one is a mind-bogglingly vast, empty,
rectangular public space, the other is an even more massive, rectangular
walled private enclosure. One represents modern China, complete with
its Socialist monuments, refrigerated Great Leader and resonances of
recent political upheaval, while the other is a silent repository of
ancient imperial glories. There is enough to see around the square and
in the Forbidden City to make it worth setting aside a whole day for
each. One day will present a vivid impression of China as it was, and
the other an equally striking portrait of the country as it is now. And
after all that, wander around the corner for a look at the new National
Grand Theater and a glimpse of the China of the future.

The cult of Mao

Mao was an
ideologue whose impatience at the pace of reform often brought disaster.
Skilful maneuvering by the Party meant that he remained a heroic
figure. The years after his death saw a diminishing of his status, as
Mao’s influence was overshadowed by the political and economic reforms
embraced by Deng Xiaoping and other leaders.




Mao’s Mausoleum



Top 10 Sights

  1. Tian’an Men Square

    Although
    now thoroughly synonymous with Beijing, until relatively recently there
    was no Tian’an Men Square. For centuries this was just a main
    thoroughfare leading to the Gate of Heavenly Peace (Tian’an Men) and the
    approach to the Forbidden City. The area was cleared in the first half
    of the 20th century, then quadrupled in size in 1959, supposedly
    allowing for up to one million people to gather. Many of the buildings
    flanking the square were erected at this time .




    Tian’an Men Square

  2. China National Museum

    This
    imposing building houses both the Museum of Chinese History and the
    Museum of the Revolution. Of the two, the former is by far the more
    interesting, with an unsurpassed collection of great works of Chinese
    art; the halls here are also used for temporary exhibitions. The Museum
    of the Revolution contains models, documents, and photographs connected
    with the history of the Chinese Communist Party – for political
    enthusiasts only. The China National Museum is closed for refurbishment
    until 2010.

    • East side of Tian’an Men Square

    • 6512 8901

    • Subway: Tian’an Men East

    • Closed until 2010


    • www.nationalmuseum.cn

  3. Great Hall of the People

    This
    the Chinese parliament building, home of the nation’s legislative body,
    the National People’s Congress. Regular tours visit the banquet room
    where US President Nixon dined in 1972 and the 10,000-seat auditorium
    with its ceiling inset with a massive red star. The building is closed
    to the public when the Congress is in session.

    • West side of Tian’an Men Square

    • 6605 6847

    • Subway: Tian’an Men West

    • Opening hours vary

    • ¥30




    Great Hall of the People

  4. National Grand Theater

    Completed
    in 2006, Beijing’s new opera house is already a major city landmark.
    Designed by French architect Paul Andreu, it is built of glass and
    titanium and takes the form of a giant parabolic dome – earning it the
    nickname “The Egg.” The high-tech lighting that illuminates the exterior
    is reflected in a moat, while the entrance is through an underwater
    tunnel.

    • 2 West Chang An Jie

    • 6655 0000

    • Subway: Tian’an Men West


    • www.chncpa.org




    National Grand Theater

  5. Imperial City Museum

    Much
    of the Imperial City of Beijing was destroyed under the Communists. A
    model in the museum illustrates the extent of what has been lost,
    including the wall that once encircled the city, the gates, and a great
    many temples. There are also exhibits on the hutongs, plus collections
    of armor, weapons, and ceramics.

    • 9 Changpu Heyan

    • 8511 5104

    • Subway: Tian’an Men East

    • Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun

    • ¥20

    • Audio tour ¥50

  6. Forbidden City

    The
    Forbidden City is Beijing’s top “must-see” sight. A seemingly endless
    collection of pavilions, gates, courts, and gardens, the complex
    encompasses five centuries of colorful, occasionally lurid, imperial
    history. Trying to see everything in one go will bring on a severe case
    of Ming fatigue, and it is recommended that you tackle the palace over
    at least two visits .




    Forbidden City

  7. Jing Shan Park

    Jing
    Shan (Coal Hill) lies immediately north of the Forbidden City. The hill
    was created from the earth that was excavated while building the moat
    around the palace complex during the reign of the Ming Yongle emperor.
    The hill’s purpose was to protect the emperor and his court from malign
    northern influences, which brought death and destruction according to
    classical feng shui. The park is dotted with pavilions and halls, but
    the highlight is the superb view south from the hill-top Wancheng
    Pavilion.

    • 1 Wenjin Jie

    • 6404 4071

    • Bus: 5, 111, 124, 810

    • Open 6am–9pm daily

    • ¥2

  8. Wangfujing Dajie

    Beijing’s main shopping street is filled with department stores and giant malls (see Shops, Malls, and Markets),
    as well as stores selling silk, tea, and shoes. Another highlight is
    the Night Market, with its range of open-air food stalls (see Wangfujing Night Market). A little to the north is St. Joseph’s, one of the city’s most important churches .

    • Subway: Wangfujing

    Night Market

    • Open 5:30pm–10pm daily




    Wangfujing street sculptures



    Wangfujing Dajie shopping street

  9. National Art Museum of China

    The
    largest art gallery in China was one of ten key buildings erected in
    1959 to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the founding of the People’s
    Republic. It has no permanent collection but its 14 halls, spread over
    three floors, host a constant rotation of temporary exhibitions of
    Chinese and international art.

    • 1 Wusi Dajie

    • 8403 3500

    • Subway: Dong Si

    • Open 9am–5pm daily; last entry 4pm

    • ¥20; audio guides ¥10 (plus ¥100 deposit)


    • www.namoc.org




    National Art Museum of China

  10. Zhong Shan Park

    Northwest
    of the Tian’an Men, Zong Shan (also known as Sun Yat Sen Park) offers
    respite from the crowds thronging the nearby sights. The park was once
    part of the grounds of a temple and the square Altar of Earth and
    Harvests remains. In the eastern section is the Forbidden City Concert
    Hall, Beijing’s premier venue for classical music.