Berlin – Around Town : Kreuzberg & Schöneberg (part 1)

Kreuzberg is possibly
Berlin’s most notorious district, and it definitely qualifies as its
most colourful area. Here, in historic tenement blocks that are slowly
but surely being renovated, Turkish families live next door to drop-outs
and alternatives, artists and students. Social tensions, still
characteristic of Kreuzberg today, make this a varied and interesting
district – but at the same time a problematic one. The neighbouring
district of Schöneberg is markedly quieter; this part of town is not as
experimental as Kreuzberg, neither is it as elegant as Charlottenburg –
here Berlin is simply enjoyed by its inhabitants. Winterfeldtplatz is
surrounded by many inviting pubs, and in the area around Nollendorfplatz
entire roads have been taken over and transformed by Berlin’s gay
scene, with their shops, bars and night clubs.

Turkish Berlin

In the 1960s, thousands of Turkish gastarbeiter
(“guest workers”) came to Berlin in response to a shortage of labour.
Today the Turkish community numbers around 190,000 and it is mainly
their children who leave their mark on life in the city. There are few
“guest workers” left; most Turkish Berliners own their own shops and
consider themselves to be true Berliners. The rate of naturalization is
still fairly low, and many German Berliners have no contact with
everyday life in the Turkish community. At 40 per cent, the rate of
unemployment among young Turkish Berliners is depressingly high.






Top 10 Sights

  1. Deutsches Technikmuseum

    The
    history of technology and crafts is the theme of this fascinating
    museum, located in the grounds of a former station. Visitors can learn
    about developments in aviation and admire 40 planes, including a Junkers
    Ju 52 and a “raisin bomber”, the type of plane used for the Berlin
    airlift. Old ships and steam locomotives bring back the days of the
    Industrial Revolution.

    • Trebbiner Str. 9

    • 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, Sun

    • 030 90 25 40

    • Admission charge (free for children after 3pm)

  2. Jüdisches Museum

    The
    Jewish Museum is not only unique architecturally, but it is also one of
    Berlin’s most fascinating museums. Its collections present an overview
    of almost 1,000 years of German-Jewish cultural history; a special
    exhibition is devoted to everyday Jewish life in Berlin from the end of
    the 19th century .

    • Lindenstr. 9–14

    • 10am–10pm Mon, 10am–8pm Tue–Sun

    • 030 25 99 33 00

    • Admission charge




  3. Checkpoint Charlie

    The
    Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, next to the former crossing point for the
    Alllied forces, has an exhibition on the history of the Berlin Wall and
    the various means people used in trying to escape from East to West
    Berlin, ranging from a hot-air balloon to a car with a false floor. Only
    a replica of the control hut remains of the former border.

    • Friedrichstr. 43–45

    • 9am–10pm daily

    • 030 253 72 50

    • Admission charge




    The old sign at Checkpoint Charlie

  4. Topographie des Terrors

    After
    1934, three terrifying Nazi institutions had their headquarters in this
    area: the security service (Sicherheitsdienst, SD) was based at
    Wilhelmstraße 102 in the Prinz-Albrecht-Palais; the school of arts and
    crafts at Prinz-Albrecht-Straße 8 was occupied by the Gestapo; while
    Heinrich Himmler, head of the SS, resided next door at No. 9, at the
    Hotel Prinz Albrecht. After World War II, all the buildings were
    bulldozed except for the cellars where, in 1933–45, prisoners had been
    interrogated and tortured. An exhibition charts the history of the area
    and a documentation centre opens in 2010.

    • Stresemannstr. 110, entrance Niederkirchner Str. 8

    • May–Sep: 10am–10pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm daily

    • 030 25 48 67 03




    Exhibition of Nazi crimes at Topographie des Terrors

  5. Anhalter Bahnhof

    Only
    pitiful fragments remain of the railway station that was once the
    largest in Europe. The giant structure was erected in 1880 by Franz
    Schwechten as a showcase station: official visitors to the Empire were
    meant to be impressed by the splendour and glory of the German capital
    as soon as they reached the railway station. In 1943 the station was
    badly damaged by bombs and in 1960 it was pulled down. The waste ground
    behind the façade was meant to become a park; today the Tempodrom is
    based here, hosting concerts and cabaret shows.

    • Askanischer Platz 6–7

  6. Oranienstraße

    Oranienstraße
    is the heart of Kreuzberg. It is the wildest, most colourful and most
    unusual street of the district, where alternative shops and pubs jostle
    for space with doner kebab take-aways and Turkish greengrocers. All
    aspects of life and politics in Kreuzberg are centred around this road.

    • Between Lindenstr. and Skalitzer Str.




  7. Nollendorfplatz

    Nollendorfplatz
    and neighbouring Winterfeldtplatz are right in the centre of
    Schöneberg. The former square has always been a focal point for the gay
    scene in Berlin, and a plaque at U-Bahn station Nollendorfplatz
    commemorates approximately 5,000 homosexuals killed in concentration
    camps by the Nazis. Today, gay life is concentrated more in the
    surrounding streets. Before World War II, Nollendorfplatz was also a
    centre of entertainment. The Metropol-Theater, today a discotheque, then
    boasted Erwin Piscator as its innovative director. And next door lived
    the writer Christopher Isherwood, whose novel formed the basis of the
    famous musical “Cabaret”.




    Façade of the Metropol

  8. Viktoriapark

    This
    rambling park was set up as a recreational space for workers in
    Kreuzberg in 1888–94 to plans by Hermann Mächtig. It has an artificial
    waterfall, and the Neo-Gothic Schinkel memorial at the top of Kreuzberg,
    66 m (216 ft) high, commemorates Prussian victory in the Wars of
    Liberation against Napoleon.

    • Kreuzbergstr.




    Memorial by Schinkel in Viktoriapark

  9. Martin-Gropius-Bau

    The richly ornamented former museum of arts and crafts is one of Berlin’s most attractive exhibition centres .

    • Niederkirchnerstr. 7

    • changing exhibitions and opening times, but usually 10am–8pm Wed–Mon

    • 030 25 48 60

    • Admission charge




    Martin-Gropius-Bau




  10. Riehmers Hofgarten

    Over
    20 buildings make up this elegant estate, built as officers’ quarters
    in the Gründerzeit (after the founding of the German Empire in 1871).
    Attractively restored in recent years, there is also a pleasant hotel
    with restaurant.

    • Yorckstr. 83–86




    Riehmers Hofgarten