Hong Kong – Around Kowloon : Kowloon – New Kowloon (part 1)

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The site of the old airport,
Kai Tak has not been allowed to lie fallow, with the former terminal
converted into the world’s largest golf driving range. In the
neighbouring streets are excellent budget dining and seconds outlets,
for this is where locals go bargain-hunting. Culture is found to the
north, in the Tang Dynasty-style architecture of the Chi Lin Nunnery or
the joyful chaos of Wong Tai Sin Temple.

The Grimmest Conditions on the Planet

More than 50,000 poor souls once inhabited the Kowloon Walled City,
a place of few laws and no taxes, but plenty of diseases and desperate
criminals. In the 1950s the triads moved in, and the narrow lanes often
ran red with blood. Before 1992 it was also one of the few places left
in Hong Kong to find grizzled opium addicts puffing away in divans.




Sights in New Kowloon

  1. Wong Tai Sin Temple

    A
    noisy, colourful affair, Wong Tai Sin is always crowded and aswirl with
    incense smoke. Legend holds that Wong Tai Sin (originally known as
    Huang Chu-ping), who was born in Zhejiang Province around AD 328, could
    see the future and make wishes come true. The temple opened in 1921,
    after a Taoist priest brought a sacred portrait of Huang to Hong Kong.
    Its vivid, stylised architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding
    concrete boxes. Worshippers from the three main Chinese religions –
    Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism – flock here, not to mention 100-odd
    soothsayers hawking their services. Find out for yourself if they are as
    accurate as Huang. Behind the temple is an ancient and mysterious tomb
    that still baffles historians.

    • 7am–5:30pm




    Temple prayer sticks and incense

  2. Lion Rock

    One
    of the best places to view this fascinating natural landmark is,
    conveniently, from outside Wong Tai Sin temple. Find the open area near
    the fortune tellers’ stalls where you can look straight up at what from
    this angle resembles the grizzled head of a male lion. Those feeling
    energetic may be tempted to scale its heights. Take lots of water, and
    be warned – the top section is not for the faint-hearted.




    Lion Rock

  3. Kowloon Walled City Park

    One
    of Hong Kong’s most picturesque parks began life in 1847 as a Chinese
    fort. A legal oversight by the British left the fort under Chinese
    control after the New Territories were leased to Britain. It was
    levelled during World War II, and a labyrinthine ghetto called the
    Walled City sprang up in its place. This bizarre place quickly became a
    magnet for triads, drug dealers, heroin addicts, p*rnographers and rats
    the size of small dogs (see The Grimmest Conditions on the Planet).
    It was pulled down in 1992 and replaced by the park. A display of
    photographs in the almshouse near the entrance tells the story.




    Kowloon Walled City Park



    Maze, Kowloon Walled City Park

  4. Oriental Golf City

    This
    is, reputedly, the world’s biggest driving range, with more than 200
    bays. Whack away to your heart’s content – unless you’re well-connected
    or seriously rich, this is as close as you’ll get to a golf course in
    Hong Kong.

    • Kai Tak Runway, Kai Fuk Rd

    • 2522 2111

    • 7am–midnight

    • Adm

  5. Chi Lin Nunnery

    It
    is said that not a single nail was used in the construction of this
    lavish replica of a Tang Dynasty (AD 618–907) place of worship. The
    nunnery opened in 2000, funded by donations from wealthy families, whose
    names are inscribed under the roof tiles. On the mainland, few original
    structures survived the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s, so this is a
    rare chance to see the ingenuity of ancient Middle Kingdom architecture.
    There are also impressive statues of the Sakyamuni Buddha, ornate
    gardens and gently whispering waterfalls, and the underlying hum of the
    chanting, shaven-headed nuns.

    • Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill

    • Thu–Tue 9am–4:30pm daily

    • Free




    Chi Lin Nunnery



    Chi Lin Nunnery complex

  6. Lei Yue Mun

    Once
    a fishing village, Lei Yue Mun translates as “carp gate”, although the
    only fish you’re likely to see now are in the excellent seafood
    restaurants lining the waterfront. This is the closest point between
    Hong Kong Island and Kowloon but don’t be tempted to swim across – if
    the pollution doesn’t kill you, you’ll be whisked away by the strong
    currents.




    Lei Yue Mun fish market

  7. Fat Jong Temple

    Although
    it is one of the most famous Buddhist sites in Hong Kong, the Fat Jong
    Temple is little visited by foreigners. Making it well worth the journey
    to see is the striking colour scheme – with red pillars standing out
    from the white walls – ornate decorations and magnificent Buddha
    sculptures. The temple somehow manages to be both busy and serene at the
    same time.

    • 175 Shatin Pass Rd, Won Tai Sin

    • 10am–6:30pm. Closed Mon

  8. Lei Chung Uk Tomb

    The
    Han burial tomb (AD 24– 220) can barely be seen through a scratched
    sheet of perspex. Still, it’s one of Hong Kong’s earliest surviving
    historical monuments, so act impressed.

    • 41 Tonkin St, Sham Shui Po

    • 10am–1pm, 2pm–6pm. Closed Mon

    • Free

  9. Hau Wong Temple

    Quaint
    and tiny, Hau Wong is hardly worth a special trip, but take a look if
    you’re in the area. It was built in 1737 as a monument to the exiled
    boy-emperor Ping’s most loyal advisor. Usually fairly quiet unless a
    festival is in full swing.

    • Junction Rd

    • 8am–5pm daily

  10. Apliu Street

    This
    huge street market is full of all sorts of strange junk and pirated
    goods. You’ll feel you’re on another planet here – this is as “local” as
    Hong Kong gets. It includes perhaps the world’s biggest collection of
    secondhand electrical stuff. Occasionally you can spot the odd retro
    turntable or radio, but most of it is rubbish.




    Apliu Street