Hong Kong Island – Northwest (part 1)

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From the corporate vanities
of Central district’s glass towers, through the vodka bars and
galleries of SoHo, and spilling down flagstone lanes to the raucous
shophouses and old docksides of Western, the Island’s northwest potently
concentrates all of Hong Kong’s surreal contradictions. In the concrete
gullies between futuristic banks and statement office blocks you’ll
find traditional street markets, temples and herbalists, all carrying on
like some Hollywood dream of old Chinatown. These are some of the most
mercantile streets in human history. A shot of snake bile wine, or a
fierce macchiato? In this part of the city, you can have it all.


Plague

In the 19th century, Hong
Kong, like many other parts of the world in history, suffered
devastating plagues incubated in filthy, crowded slums. It was also in
Hong Kong where, in 1894, the source of the plague was identified,
almost simultaneously, by two doctors. The discovery of the bacteria
went on to revolutionize prevention and treatment of plague.






Central district and harbour

Sights in the Northwest

  1. Hong Kong Park

    When
    you’re tired of Central’s relentless bustle, Hong Kong Park’s open
    spaces and mature trees make an excellent escape, particularly its
    strikingly elegant (and free) walk-through aviary. The flowing streams
    and lush plant life of this improbable mini-rainforest are a peaceful
    and shaded home to scores of exotic bird species. The park also has
    lakes, a large conservatory, a viewing tower and the free Museum of
    Teaware, which is located inside Flagstaff House.




    Red lory, Hong Kong Park



    Aviary, Hong Kong Park

  2. Exchange Square and Two IFC Tower

    As
    the name suggests, Exchange Square houses Hong Kong’s red-carpeted
    financial engine room, although the stock exchange is not open to
    visitors. However, the peaceful square outside it, dominated by a large
    fountain, is a great place to eat or drink outside. Near the fountain
    are sculptures by Henry Moore and Dame Elizabeth Frink. The square’s
    newest building, Two IFC Tower, is a striking addition to the island’s already impressive skyline.




    Frink sculpture, Exchange Square

  3. Former Government House

    This
    grand old building served as the British governor’s residence from 1855
    until 1997, when the last governor, Chris Patten, handed Hong Kong back
    to China. Patten’s successor, Tung Chee-hwa, cited bad feng shui
    created by the needle-like Bank of China
    building as one reason not to move in, opting to remain in his house on
    the Peak. Back in the 1940s, the occupying Japanese added the
    Shinto-style towers to the Georgian structure, which at one time enjoyed
    harbour views. The building is used for official functions, only
    opening occasionally to the public – contact HKTB for details.

  4. The Escalator

    A
    wonderful feature of Hong Kong is its 792-m (2,598-ft) long string of
    escalators, which links all the roads between Queen’s Road and Conduit
    Street. It’s the best way for pedestrians to get around the steep
    districts of Central, the Mid-Levels and SoHo. The Escalator runs uphill
    until midnight, except during the morning rush hour, when it runs
    downhill.




    One of the escalators

  5. SoHo

    In
    the last few years SoHo (so-called for being the area south of
    Hollywood Road) has been transformed from a sleepy district of
    traditional Chinese shops into a thriving area for hip bars, cafés and
    restaurants. Elgin, Shelley and Staunton streets are excellent places to
    find a drink or bite to eat.




    Restaurant, SoHo

  6. Sheung Wan and Western

    The
    older, more traditional Chinese areas of town, just west of Central’s
    sleek corporate head-quarters and the smart shops, are worth exploring
    by foot. The reward is a fascinating array of shops, mostly wholesalers,
    selling dried seafood (the pervading smell here), ginseng, edible
    swallows’ nests, snakes, arcane herbal ingredients and paper offerings
    for the dead. Try the streets around Bonham Strand.

  7. Lan Kwai Fong

    Not
    much to look at during the day, Lan Kwai Fong (or Orchid Square) only
    really starts to buzz at night when office workers, including plenty of
    city suits, come here to unwind at its many bars, clubs and restaurants.
    The street is packed with revellers on Fridays. The partying spills
    across to tiny Wing Wah Lane just across D’Aguilar Street with bars and
    good-value Thai, Malay and Indian restaurants.

  8. The Waterfront

    Turn
    right out of the Central Star Ferry for some (admittedly meagre and
    poorly exploited) open waterside space and benches with good views
    across to Kowloon. Behind is Jardine House, for many years Asia’s
    tallest building. To the east is the giant upturned gin bottle shape of
    the Prince of Wales HQ building, which is now army barracks. The
    waterfront hosts the “Symphony of Lights” laser and sound show every
    evening at 8pm.




    Central district

  9. Man Mo Temple

    The
    gloomy red and gold interior of the Man Mo Temple, dating back to the
    1840s, is always thick with sandalwood smoke from the giant incense
    spirals hanging overhead, which take a couple of weeks to burn through.
    The temple is dedicated to two deities, Man (the god of literature) and
    Mo (the god of war). Some of the scenes from the film version of Richard
    Mason’s The World of Suzy Wong were filmed here.

    • Western end, Hollywood Rd




    Man Mo Temple



    Man Mo Temple

  10. Hollywood Road

    This
    Mecca for Chinese antiques and curios may no longer offer the bargains
    it once did but Hollywood Road’s eastern end is still jammed with shops
    selling ancient ceramics, mammoth ivory carvings and delicate snuff
    bottles. The stalls and shops on Upper Lascar Row are a good hunting
    ground for antiques, trinkets, old coins, kitsch and curios. Haggling is
    definitely acceptable here.




    Antiques, Hollywood Road