A Day in Royal Madrid
Morning
Catch the first guided tour of the morning (10:30am) at the
Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
. On leaving, cross Plaza San Martín
to Calle de Hilera, then turn right onto Calle del Arenal. Follow this
busy street to Plaza de Isabel II, the best place to admire Madrid’s
opera house, the Teatro Real. Follow Calle Felipe V alongside the theatre until you come to Plaza de Oriente and the
Palacio Real
. The palace is closed at least once a
week for official functions but, if it is open, it is worth allocating
an hour to looking around.
There are plenty of places to eat in the vicinity of Plaza de Oriente, for example the café of the same name (see Places to Eat and Drink). A plaque on the wall nearby reminds visitors that this was once the treasury house where the artist Velázquez had his studio.
Afternoon
After the frantic activity of the morning, enjoy a restful afternoon in the
Casa de Campo
park. If you didn’t lunch at a café,
a picnic may be a good idea. You could stock up at the Oriente’s
delicatessen, just round the corner at Calle Carlos III, 3 (see El Obrador del Café de Oriente).
To get to Casa de Campo take the metro from Opera (on Plaza Isabel II)
to Lago (line R to Principe Pío, then line 10). Here you can either
enjoy a spot of peaceful sunbathing and people watching, or take in one
of the many attractions of the park.
Shops
-
La Metralleta
This
large store specializes in second-hand records. Every taste and period
is catered for and the staff are both helpful and knowledgeable.

La Metralleta
-
Cántaro
A
treasure trove for admirers of pottery and an excellent place to shop
for gifts. Products from all over Spain at very reasonable prices.
-
Antigua Casa Talavera
If
you’ve been bowled over by the 18th-century Talavera ceramics in the
Palacio Real, you’ll find that the modern descendants of these craftsmen
have not lost their touch. This outlet offers a wide range of
hand-painted jugs, plates, mugs and more.
-
Manuel González Contreras
Good
guitars don’t come cheap and there’s usually a long waiting list for a
handmade instrument. This workshop may already have what you are looking
for.
-
El Flamenco Vive
This family business specializes in all things Flamenco, from beautiful dresses to guitars, CDs, music and videos.

El Flamenco Vive
-
El Obrador del Café de Oriente
If
you’re planning a picnic in the Sabatini Gardens or further afield, the
delicatessen of the Café del Oriente has everything you need, from
fresh bread and filled rolls to cheeses, cooked meats and cakes.
-
8 y Medio
Located
in the centre of Madrid’s main cinema district, this shop is a treasure
house for film buffs, with books, posters, postcards and more.
-
Kukuxumusu
This
design company started as three friends selling T-shirts on the streets
of Pamplona during the 1989 Sanfermines fiesta. The bright graphics
proved hugely popular, and Kukuxumusu now sells their products
throughout Europe.
-
El Riojano
Founded in 1855, this pretty, old-style pastelería caters for the Spanish royal family, no less. Shop here for seasonal Madrid specialities such as tocino de cielo.
-
Toni Martín
Fans
of country music, jazz and rock ‘n’ roll take note. This excellent
outlet has a great selection of CDs and vinyl, new and second hand.
Places to Eat and Drink

-
Chocolatería San Ginés
Head here after a night out for a traditional breakfast of chocolate con churros.
-
Pasadizo de S Ginés 5
-
91 365 6546
-
Open 9:30am–7am daily
-
No credit cards
-
Taberna del Alabardero
Snack on jamón Ibérico or croquetas in the tapas bar or eat Basque food in the adjoining restaurant.
-
Calle de Felipe V, 6
-
91 547 2577
-
Casa Ciriaco
Try classic dishes like the dessert bizcocho borracho (“cross-eyed drunk” sponge cake soaked in wine and syrup).
-
Calle Mayor 84
-
91 548 0620
-
Closed Wed, Aug

-
Café de Oriente
An elegant café with velvet seats, stucco ceiling and summer terrace.
-
Plaza de Oriente 2
-
91 541 3974
-
Entre Suspiro y Suspiro
Tasty Mexican dishes include “devil salad” with prawns, mango, coriander and chicken in chocolate sauce (mole).
-
Calle de Caños del Peral 3
-
91 542 0644
-
Closed Sat L, Sun, 2nd week Aug
-
La Bola
Cocido (various meats cooked in a rich broth) is the highlight at this 19th-century restaurant.
-
La Vaca Argentina
One of a chain of steak houses specializing in grilled beef straight from the pampas. Can be noisy.
-
El Cangrejero
This bar has a good choice of seafood tapas. Mahou beer originally came from the factory next door.
-
Calle de Amaniel 25
-
91 548 3935
-
Closed Sun D, Wed, Aug
-
No credit cards
-
Entrevinos
The international wine list runs to more than 200 varieties. Speciality snacks include habas (salted broad beans) with jamón Ibérico.
-
Calle de Ferraz 36
-
91 548 3114
-
Closed Aug
-
Taberna del Buen Suceso
Located
close to the Parque del Oeste and the pleasant outdoor terraces of
Pintor Rosales, this restaurant is well-known for its meaty fare such as
chorizo (spicy sausage) cooked in wine.
-
Calle del Buen Suceso 24
-
91 547 30 38
-
Closed Sun, Aug