New York – Around Town : Union Square, Gramercy Park, and Flatiron (part 1)

Change is in the air in this
flourishing section of Manhattan. Union Square, once a hangout for drug
dealers and scene of protest rallies, has been renovated and
transformed. A Greenmarket fills the square with fresh produce four
times a week, drawing patrons from all over the city, and the
neighborhood around the square is attracting an increasing number of new
apartments, shops, and restaurants. The shops and lively eating places
now extend up Fifth Avenue into the once-neglected Flatiron District,
named for the building at the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Broadway
at 23rd Street. Quiet Madison Square, opposite the Flatiron Building, is
the site of two of the city’s hottest restaurants and is undergoing its
own restoration. No change was needed in Gramercy Park, the most
European of the city’s neighborhoods.


The City’s Squares

Manhattan has only four London-style squares,
Union, Madison, Stuyvesant and Gramercy Park, all formed in the 1800s by
real estate speculators hoping to profit by selling surrounding lots to
the wealthy. The squares provide welcome breaks among the city’s dense,
tall buildings, but only Gramercy Park has remained residential.






Rooftops on Broadway


Sights

  1. Union Square Greenmarket

    Herbs
    and berries, miniature vegetables, fresh flowers and homebaked
    pastries, newly woven yarns, hams, honey – all of these and more can be
    found at the bountiful Greenmarket that fills Union Square each Monday,
    Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. Over 200 regional farmers take part in
    the market, each offering only goods that they have grown or made. Not
    to be missed.

    • At Broadway & 14th St

    • Open 8am–6pm Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat




    A Manhattan market scene

  2. ABC Carpet & Home

    The
    city’s most eclectic emporium, two landmark buildings that are part
    flea market, part antiques fair, and part Middle Eastern bazaar.
    Offerings include fancy French or rugged Mexican furniture, antiques,
    fabrics and accessories, linens, bedding, flowers, and rugs. There are
    two dining places: Dessert Studio and Pipa.

    • 881 & 888 Broadway at East 19th St

  3. Madison Square

    The
    square opened in 1847 at the center of a residential area where
    politician Theodore Roosevelt and writer Edith Wharton were born. The
    original Madison Square Garden was here, at Madison Avenue and 26th
    Street. Development brought distinguished sites such as the Flatiron and
    Metropolitan Life buildings. Today the statue-filled park and the area
    are being rediscovered.

    • 23rd to 26th Sts between Broadway & Madison Ave




    Madison Square

  4. Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace

    The
    boyhood home where the colorful 26th President was born in 1858 has
    been reconstructed. Exhibits trace his political career as well as his
    explorations, displaying everything from toys to campaign buttons, and
    emblems of the trademark “Rough Rider” hat Roosevelt wore in the
    Spanish-American war. The house offers a rare glimpse of a privileged
    19th-century New York lifestyle.

    • 28 East 20th St, between Broadway & Park Ave South

    • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat

    • Admission charge

    • Visits are by guided tour only


    • www.nps.gov/thrb




    Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace

  5. Metropolitan Life Tower

    This
    54-story tower, built along the east side of Madison Square in 1909,
    was the world’s tallest building at that time, an appropriate corporate
    symbol for the world’s largest insurance company. Designed by Napoleon
    Le Brun and Sons, the tower follows the form of the campanile in the
    Piazza San Marco in Venice. Although it was altered in the 1960s, when
    the entire structure was renovated, the ornate four-faced clock and
    crowning cupola remain, a familiar landmark on the New York skyline.

    • 1 Madison Ave, near 24th St

    • Open during office hours

    • Free




    Metropolitan Life Tower

  6. Flatiron Building

    Though
    dwarfed by countless taller structures today, this unusual building –
    its shape conforming to a triangular plot of land – remains striking, a
    symbol of the beginning of the skyscraper era. Its slim, rounded façade
    is as proud as a ship’s prow sailing up the avenue. Completed in 1902,
    it anchored the north end of the prestigious Ladies’ Mile shopping
    district, located between Union and Madison squares. The designer,
    famous Chicago architect Daniel Burnham, included detailed Italian
    Renaissance decoration on the building from top to bottom, much of it in
    terracotta.

    • 175 5th Ave at Broadway & 23rd St

    • Open office hours

    • Free




    Flatiron Building

  7. Gramercy Park

    Samuel
    Ruggles laid out this neighborhood around a private park in the 1830s.
    It remains the city’s only private park and a desirable place to live.
    Stanford White remodeled No. 16 in 1888 for Edwin Booth, who founded the
    Players Club here. His statue stands in the park (see Edwin Booth as Hamlet).

    • Lexington Ave, between 20th & 21st Sts

    • Closed to public




    Gramercy Park



    Fantasy Fountain, Greg Wyatt, Gramercy Park

  8. National Arts Club

    Originally the home of Samuel Tilden, a governor of New York and opponent of the notorious Boss Tweed.
    The Gothic Revival brownstone was designed by Calvert Vaux, of Central
    Park fame. The National Arts Club, whose members have included leading
    American artists since the 1800s, bought the building in 1906. Each
    member is asked to donate a work to the club. Its galleries are open to
    the public.

    • 15 Gramercy Park South




    Writers’ faces, National Arts Club

  9. 69th Regiment Armory

    This
    Beaux Arts building was used as the drill hall and offices of a
    military unit privately formed in 1848. In 1913, the controversial
    exhibition of modern art known as the Armory Show was held here,
    including works by Van Gogh, Duchamp, and Brancusi. The show was widely
    panned in the press, but it brought modern art to New York on a large
    scale and had a profound and lasting effect on American art.

    • Lexington Ave, between 25th & 26th Sts

    • Closed to public

  10. “Curry Hill”

    Despite
    changes around it, this three-block corridor just south of Murray Hill
    remains filled with Indian shops selling saris and gifts, and is lined
    with restaurants that are a boon for diners (particularly vegetarians)
    in search of interesting food at reasonable prices. Kalustyan’s, 123
    Lexington Avenue, is a treasure trove of fragrant spices and grains and
    features some 31 different kinds of rice.

    • Lexington Ave, between 26th & 29th Sts