“Can
you imagine a life without onion? Mealtimes would be monotonous, dishes dreary
and every menu a minefield. So, let’s pay homage to the humble bumble bulb with
recipes so delicious they’ll make you weep” .
Onions are
the unsung heroes of the kitchen: virtually everything you eat in a good
European restaurant will be somehow underpinned with an onion. The basis of all
cream sauces and jus, soups, broths and stocks, the unassuming bulb is the
ultimate flavor-builder. One of the biggest lessons I learnt as a fledgling
chef was to add seasoning and herbs while sweating the onions – this, ladies
and gentlemen, is the precise moment during preparation that you have the best
chance of adding a big kick of flavor.
There’s
probably only been three big breaks for the deceptively versatile bulb. The
first was the invention of French onion soup, a supremely comforting winter
dish made with a ton of finely sliced onions and a good beef stock, and crowded
with a crisp cheese crouton. The second was the birth of the ubiquitous onion
ring, without which no self-respecting burger would be caught dead. And the
third, and most recent, took place early in my career and had me totally floored when first tasted it in Australia: red
onion marmalade. Soft, sticky and sweet, it’s given pates, terrines and the
ploughman’s platter a brand-new lease on life.
Recently,
I’ve become quite fanatical about extracting as much as I can from the onion. I
have an elaborate dish on the menu at the moment that comprises a set duck-liver custard served with a “variety of onions”:
a shallot-and-sherry relish, charred spring onions, confit
baby onions… even powdered onions have a walk-on role. Imagine all the natural
caramelized sweetness you could wish for… sublime! Here, I’ve put together a
few equally exciting dishes, each of which demonstrates the mighty prowess of
this beautiful bulb.”
Spring onion confit with
gorgonzola soubise
Serves 4
A little
effort
Great value
Spring onion confit
with gorgonzola soubise
Preparation: 20 minutes
Cooking: 45 minutes
·
Purple spring onions 8
·
Sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper
·
Baby onions 8
·
Garlic 1 bulb, halved
width ways
·
Rosemary 1 large sprigs
·
Sage leaves 8
·
Bay leaves 4
·
Butter 80 g
·
Balsamic vinegar 3 T
·
Water 2 T
·
Baby leaves, to garnish
For the
Gorgonzola soubise:
·
White onions 300 g,
finely sliced
·
Butter 40 g
·
Bay leaves 2
·
Fresh thyme 4 sprigs
·
Sea salt, to taste
·
Cream 2 cups
·
Gorgonzola 150 g
- Preheat the oven to 1500C. Rinse the spring onions well
under running water. Dry with a clean tea towel and season. Peel and halve
the baby onions and place them, and the spring onions, on large sheet of
tin foil, along with the remaining ingredients, except for the vinegar,
water, and baby leaves. - Fold up the sides of the tin foil add the water and balsamic
vinegar and seal. Bake for 30 minutes, for until the onions are soft. - Transfer to a pan and reduce the liquid over a medium heat until
the liquid emulsifies and thickens slightly, about 15 minutes. - Gently heat the soubise and spoon onto a plate. Scatter over the
onions and sauce and garnish with the baby leaves. - To make the Gorgonzola soubise, sweat the onions in the butter with
the herbs and a good sprinkling of salt. Add the cream and bring to the
boil. Simmer until slightly thick. Blend well, adding the Gorgonzola while
blending. Adjust the seasoning and strain.
Meat-free
Wine: Axe Hill Cape White
Luke’s onion rings
Serves 4
Easy
Great value
Luke’s onion rings
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 15 minutes
·
Free-range egg white 1
·
Rice flour ½ cup, plus extra for dusting
·
Water ½ cup
·
Spanish or white onions
2, sliced to a thickness of ½ cm
·
Vegetable oil, for
frying
·
Sea salt
- Whisk the egg white, rice flour and water, but not too smoothly.
- Dust the onion rings in rice flour then pass through the batter.
- Deep-fry in the hot oil for 4 to 6 minutes, or until light golden
and crunchy. Serve scattered with sea salt.
Meat-free,
wheat- and gluten-free
Wine: Sterhuis Unwooded Chardonnay 2011