While motocrycling between Cape Town and London, Jeremy Bullard was lured serious off poste by the words of Milary Bradt – he found himself in Madagascar I never meant to go to Madagascar at all. After all it was not on the Cape Town to London overland route that I was following. However, my inability … Read more
Watersports for adventurous types, yacht lounging for the not so. Either way. Here’s a selection of the best destinations Hotel Eden Roc Ascona, Switzerland Influenced by its close proximity to Italy, Ascona is the dimming Swiss town graced with a unique pseudo-Mediterranean climate that appears to escape the rest of Switzerland. Though the snow-peaked landscape … Read more
The sleek, shiny, white walls of the Museu d’Art Contemporani (MACBA) juxtapose the decrepit, ramshackle tenement buildings; Asian grocery stores sell herbs and spices next to what were once the most decadent brothels in Europe; and smoky, decades-old bars share dark, narrow streets with high-ceilinged art galleries showcasing video installations. The old-town barrio of El … Read more
A Ramble in El Raval Morning Start your ramble mid-morning by perusing the innovative temporary art exhibits at the CCCB . Here the two world’s have meshed harmoniously. The eye-catching blend of old-meets-new in this cutting-edge art space provides a fitting introduction to El Raval’s new identity. Head south along C/Montalegre to the Plaça dels … Read more
Bars & Clubs Bar Almirall The Modernista doors swing open to a young, friendly crowd at Barcelona’s oldest watering hole. Founded in 1860, the bar has many original fittings, plus eclectic music and strong cocktails. C/Joaquin Costa 33 Zelig Intimate and welcoming, this gay-friendly cocktail bar is a great place to start the night. There … Read more
Fremont declared itself an “artists’ republic” in the 1960s, when a community of students, artists, and bohemians moved in, attracted by low rents. The name crystallizes the unflagging spirit of independence, eccentricity, and most of all, nonconformity. In retrospect, what may have begun as an idealistic artists’ enclave was more accurately an early sign of … Read more
A Morning Around Fremont Start your picnic with an espresso at ETG (3512 Fremont Place N). Cross at the crosswalk just outside the door to 35th Street, turning right to spy the neon-adorned Army surplus missile at 35th and Evanston Avenue N. Turn left on Evanston and walk a block to PCC (600 N 34th), … Read more
Shops Steve’s Fremont News Find newspapers from all around the globe or just peruse their stunning assortment of magazines. Located right by the Metro bus stop. 3416 Fremont Ave N Dusty Strings Since 1979, this musical instrument store has attracted players and fans of folk music looking for an Irish harp, fiddle, rare acoustic guitar, … Read more
Encompassing Schwabing, Maxvorstadt, and the fringes of Lehel, this district covers the entire area lying to the left and right of Ludwigstraße and Leopoldstraße. At the beginning of the 19th century, the expansion of the Old Town north and west of Odeonsplatz began with the development of Maxvorstadt, then a suburb. This is where you … Read more
A Day in the University District Morning Begin your day in true bohemian style at the Café Münchner Freiheit. Afterward, stroll down Leopoldstr. and turn into Kaiserstr., with its pretty houses. Lenin lived at No. 46. At Kaiserplatz, follow Friedrichstr. to the corner of Ainmillerstr., with its Art Nouveau houses (Nos. 20–37). Continue along Friedrichstr. … Read more
Cafés, Bistros & Bars Café Münchner Freiheit Multi-level café with large terrace on the north side of Münchner Freiheit. A larger-than-life statue of actor Helmut Fischer overlooks the outdoor tables. Perfect for lunch. Münchner Freiheit Café Reitschule Located at the edge of the Englischer Garten, this traditional café boasts three patios, a beer garden, and … Read more
Encompassing parts of Old Town, Lincoln Park, Lakeview, and Wrigleyville, Chicago’s Northside boasts upscale restaurants and chi-chi boutiques galore, as well as some of the city’s best bars and one of its most progressive theater companies, the Steppenwolf. Older buildings have been transformed into beautiful condominiums, while stylish new apartments are springing up on empty … Read more
Exploring Northside Morning Fuel up for the day at one of Lincoln Park’s favorite breakfast joints, Frances’ (2552 N. Clark St.), where they serve a wonderfully fluffy French toast. Afterwards, stroll east down Wrightwood Avenue, and you’ll pass the ornate Francis Dewes Mansion. Keep walking until you come to the Lincoln Park Zoo , where … Read more
Neighborhood Bars Schubas Tavern & Harmony Grill Twenty-somethings dress down for beer, live music, and a great restaurant that packs in crowds, especially on the patio during warm-weather weekends. 3159 N. Southport Ave Decorative Brickwork at Schubas Tavern & Harmony Grill Four Farthings Tavern This casual, family-owned bar is a perfect spot to kick back … Read more
Welcome to an enchanting land of golden pagodas, velvet shoes and lotus flowers. After decades of darkness and fear, the horizon is full of hope as visitors are being encouraged to explore the treasures this unique Asian country once more, says Harriet O’ Brien. Land of the Golden Pagodas Early one morning I watched a … Read more
As a result, I subsequently returned several times, to write a book, to report, to visit friends, and my experiences were of a Heart of Darkness land, fascinating, picturesque and heart-rending in equal measure. Life was laden with a profound sense of unease. There was an incipient look of fear behind people’s eyes. The last … Read more
Ethnic Burmese account for more than two-thirds of the country’s 56 million people. A bewildering number of other groups make up the remaining third (from the Atsi to the Wa and the Zo, some say there are 100, others say it’s more like 200). Most of these minorities want independence from the central government or … Read more
As in other parts of Burma, visitors are welcome at the local pagodas and monasteries. Indeed, part of the charm of any trip to the country is the inclusiveness of the form of Buddhism practiced there and the fact that today you often join happy groups of Burmese travelling to these religious sites from far … Read more
However, Mandalay is a really outstanding destination mainly because of what lies immediately around it: the ruins of much older cities and religious sites sit decaying in an antique landscape. We took a boat trip 10 km up the Irrawaddy to Mingun, gliding past a timeless scene of bullocks ploughing a tapestry of fields on … Read more
Getting there The easiest way to travel to Burma from the UK is via Bangkok, from where Thai Airways International (www.thaiairways.com) flies to Rangoon daily. Journey time – The flight from London to Bangkok takes about 12 hours, and to Rangoon 80 minutes. The writer and photographer’s visit was arranged by Ampersand Travel (020 7289 … Read more