Roman Culture, Layer upon Layer
Because of church
opening times, you should take this walk (two to four hours) starting at
about 10am or at 4pm. Starting with the Theatre of Marcellus, notice the soaring buttresses that support the palace, added in the 16th century. Heading round the next corner, in
Santa Maria in Campitelli
use binoculars to espy the oak leaves depicted in the altar’s tiny icon. Continuing west, as you approach the Fontana delle Tartarughe, listen for the sound of splashing water echoing off the medieval walls. To the north, the
Crypta Balbi Museum
has fascinating displays about the neighbourhood’s history. One block north is the awe-inspiring Gesù.
For one of the best cappuccino-cornetto combinations in town, stop off at Bernasconi (Piazza Cairoli, 16).
At
Sant’Andrea della Valle
look up at the unusual barrel-vaulted ceiling. Then head south to Via di Grotta Pinta for the remains of the
Theatre of Pompey
. A block northwest, in the piazza of the
Palazzo Farnese
, admire the twin fountains, composed of stone tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. Walk across
Campo de’ Fiori
to
Palazzo della Cancelleria
to contemplate its Renaissance perfection.
End with a drink at
La Curia di Bacco
set in 1st-century BC vaults of the Theatre of Pompey.
Best of the Rest
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Palazzo Farnese
One of Rome’s largest palaces is graced by superlative Michelangelo creations, such as the wonderful cornice ..
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Palazzo Spada
Home
in the 17th century to two brothers, Bernardino and Virginio Spada, who
amassed a fine collection of paintings, the building now houses the
Council of State and a gallery .
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Il Vittoriano
The
pastiche of motifs on this monument to Victor Emmanuel II is so out of
sync with the city that Romans give it nicknames such as “The Wedding
Cake”.
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Palazzo Venezia
Pope
Paul II, who built this palace, watched the carnival horse races from
the balcony. From the same, Mussolini shouted his Fascist harangues .
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Portico d’Ottavia
Built
in honour of Octavia, Augustus’s sister, this was an entrance to the
Circus Flaminius. Despite the archaeological digs, you can pass through
the ruins on scaffolding.
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Museo Barracco
This palazzo houses a small but important collection of ancient sculpture .
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Via Giulia
Fashionable
street laid out by Bramante in the early 16th century. The ivy-hung
viaduct was designed by Michelangelo, but never completed.
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Synagogue
This 1904 synagogue has a museum that traces the history of Rome’s Jewish community (see The Jews in Rome).
Synagogue
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Palazzo della Cancelleria
Sublime Renaissance structure, once the Papal Chancellery.
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Piazza della Cancelleria
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Open by appt only
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Adm
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Santa Maria in Campitelli
Home to one of the most lavish tabernacles in Rome.
Tabernacle, Santa Maria in Campitelli
Shops
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Marble and Tile Bottega
This
is certainly one of the most fascinating of a nest of authentic
workshops. Particularly appealing are the 18th-and 19th-century
Neapolitan floor tiles.
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Il Goccetto
Considered
by connoisseurs to be Rome’s premier wine shop, more than 500 labels
are available to try by the glass. The proprietor’s expertise is at your
disposal when selecting which bottles to take home.
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Antichità
One of the most appealing antiques shops on this street. An assortment of furniture and small knick-knacks at good prices.
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Libreria Babele
Rome’s first gay and lesbian shop has a selection of books in English, plus information concerning goings-on about town.
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Sciam
This incredible shop has a Middle Eastern bazaar atmosphere. Hand-blown glass is a speciality.
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Fahrenheit 451
Cinema, art and photography books galore.
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Brooks
Modern classics for men in this little boutique, on the street known to have the best, most fashionable bargains in town.
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Momento
An
eclectic boutique for just about every taste, with chiffon ball gowns,
floor-sweeping wool coats and tops in wild prints, as well as a
collection of funky and fun accessories.
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Orologeria Mazzella
Looking
for a nice watch that won’t blow your budget? This friendly proprietor
sells name brands at about 30–50 per cent below regular retail prices.
Strong on Swatch watches.
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Libreria Rinascita
Once
the Communist Party’s headquarters, this building now houses a
well-stocked bookshop. Every Sunday one section of the store is entirely
devoted to children, who are free to play and read.