The birthplace of modern Seattle has a colorful
history marked by economic and geological fluctuations. The Great Fire
of 1889 virtually destroyed it, before Alaska’s Gold Rush breathed new
life and Victorian architecture into the mix. The old warehouses and
narrow streets gave rise to a thriving loft arts scene in the 1980s and
90s. While rents have skyrocketed and developers continue to renovate
the grand façades of relic buildings, the galleries, cafés, and
entrepreneurial spirit remain. The district stands as a testament to a
city’s survival, particularly after a devastating earthquake in 2001.
Elliott Bay Book Co
Bill Speidel’s Under-ground Tour
Grand Central Bakery
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214 1st Ave S
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206 622 3644
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Merchant’s Café
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109 Yesler Way
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206 624 1515
Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
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319 2nd Ave S
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206 220 4240
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In February 2001,
Pioneer Square and the entire Puget Sound region experienced a 40-second
earthquake, measuring a whopping 6.8 on the Richter scale. Several
otherwise sturdy and fireproof brick-and-mortar constructions from
post1889 met their match. Falling bricks and façades crushed cars and
damaged many edifices .
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If the weather’s rainy or
cold, curl up under high ceilings by Grand Central Bakery’s cozy
fireplace with a good book and a tasty meal or dessert.
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Top 10 Sights
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Smith Tower
Built in 1914 by typewriter tycoon L.C. Smith, at 42 stories this skyscraper was once the tallest edifice west of New York. Ride the hand-operated elevator to the observation deck for great views.
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Elliott Bay Book Company
A
bibliophile’s dream destination, this is one of Seattle’s best
booksellers. Expect an erudite and informed staff, an incredible
selection, a large café, and a notable series of author’s readings.
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Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour
Deliberately
unusual in name and nature, this out-fit presents a remarkable look at
Pioneer Square’s underground history. The Great Fire, tidal patterns,
and poor sewage design forced citizens to convert second stories into
first, shown through this subterranean 90-minute walk starting from
Pioneer Building.
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First Thursdays
On
the first Thursday of each month, from 6pm to 8pm, galleries sponsor a
well-attended art walk. Patrons can talk directly to the artists about
their displayed works. An ideal starting point is Occidental Way between
Main and Jackson Street, where you can find many of the galleries and
upscale shops.
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Pioneer Square
This
cobblestone triangle of land bordered by Yesler Way and First Avenue is
notable for a Tlingit totem pole, and a statue of Seattle’s namesake,
Chief Sealth. It also features an iron-and-glass pergola built in 1909
that once marked the entrance to the “finest underground restroom in the
United States”.
Cedar totem poles
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Grand Central Bakery
This is the artisinal bakery and café that helped make hand-rolled European-style bread a mainstay in Seattle.
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Waterfall Garden
In the Northwest, water is everywhere. Step inside this tiny private park to meditate on a man-made paean to tumbling water.
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Merchant’s Café
Popular
and still prospering after 100 years, Merchant’s Café is Seattle’s
oldest restaurant with Victorian decor and hearty meals.
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Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
A
versatile display of exhibits, films, and photographs emphasize
Seattle’s role as the closest US city to Alaskan gold, and as a crucial
supply post for claim stakers .
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Skid Road
Henry
Yesler’s logging mill sat at the foot of what is now Yesler Way, a hill
as long and steep as any in San Francisco. He used it to slide timber
down to the wharf. When Pioneer Square’s economy tumbled, Skid Road came
to signify desolation and despair.