Toronto – Around Town – East (part 1)

by

The eastern part of Toronto
is a region of contrasts. Some of the city’s grandest old mansions
remain along the stately streets of Jarvis and Sherbourne, though many
of these homes were abandoned for years and have only in the past few
decades undergone renovation and gentrification. The same is true of
Cabbagetown, originally a working-class Irish immigrant neighborhood,
where Victorian rowhouses and cottages have been transformed into an
upscale neighborhood of urban professionals. There are many historic
sights in the area and a vibrant streetlife throughout Toronto’s east
side, thanks to the lively gay village along Church Street, the Greek
and Macedonian enclave of The Danforth, and the fresh-food destination
of St. Lawrence Market. To the south, a complex of Victorian buildings
has been converted into the Distillery Historic District, one of the
city’s newest shopping and entertainment destinations.

Don River

Named by the
lieutenant-governor of Upper Canada, John Graves Simcoe, after a stream
in Yorkshire, England, the Don River is one of the city’s defining
natural features. Flowing just east of downtown into Lake Ontario, the
river and its steep valley cut a swath through the city. While
industrial use of the river, particularly at its southern end – where
its meandering course is channeled into an abrupt right turn – have
degraded the water, recent naturalization projects have started the long
process of restoring the Don Valley to ecological health. The ribbon of
connected greenspaces following the Don’s course means that you can
hike and cycle along bike paths for hours right in the center of the
city and encounter few signs of civilization.




Sights

  1. St. Lawrence Market

    Farmers
    sell fresh produce and baked goods from seasonal stalls in the north
    market on Saturdays, with many specializing in organic food. In the
    vibrant south market, open Tuesday to Saturday, permanent vendors sell
    everything from fresh bread and produce to seafood, meats, and cheeses.
    The south building served as City Hall in the mid- to late 1800s (see St. Lawrence Hall).




    Vegetables at St. Lawrence Market

  2. Distillery Historic District

    This
    Victorian industrial district is now one of the city’s most interesting
    and picturesque. Pedestrian-only cobblestone streets lead past old
    warehouses and historic factories stunningly preserved and renovated to
    house galleries, restaurants, performance venues, and specialty shops .




    Glass artwork, Ainsley Gallery

  3. The Danforth

    Linked
    to downtown by the 1918 Prince Edward Viaduct, which spans the Don
    River Valley, The Danforth has been called home by the city’s thriving
    Greek and Macedonian communities since the 1950s. In early August, the
    weeklong Taste of The Danforth street festival is a smorgasbord of tasty treats and live entertainment.




    Sidewalk café, The Danforth

  4. Cabbagetown

    One
    of Toronto’s earliest subdivisions, dating to the 1840s, this district
    remained a working-class community well into the 1970s. Many of the
    cottages and Victorian homes have since been renovated, and it is now an
    upscale residential enclave that makes for a pleasant stroll. On the
    east side is Riverdale Park and its delightful Riverdale Farm.
    Across the street, on the grounds of the Necropolis Cemetery, is a
    chapel built in 1872, a Gothic Revival treasure. At the north end of Cabbagetown, St. James Cemetery, Toronto’s oldest, has many beautiful crypts.




    Cabbagetown cottage

  5. Mackenzie House

    This
    Greek Revival rowhouse, built in 1858, was the home of Toronto’s first
    mayor, William Lyon Mackenzie, who returned here after being granted
    amnesty for his leading role in the failed Upper Canada Rebellion in
    1837. Now a period museum, it features a recreated printshop and a
    gallery with changing exhibitions. It is rumored to be haunted.

    • 82 Bond St

    • open Jan–Apr: noon–5pm Sat–Sun; May–Sep: noon–5pm Tue–Sun; Sep–Dec: noon–4pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sat–Sun

    • Adm




    Mackenzie House

  6. Church Street

    The
    hub of Toronto’s Gay and Lesbian Village, Church Street from Carleton
    Street to north of Wellesley Street, is vibrant day and night. Bars and
    restaurants cater to an out crowd, and specialty shops, such as those
    selling body wear, abound. The general vibe is pink and proud and it’s
    no wonder that the popular TV show Queer as Folk, made in Toronto, is often filmed on location at Church Street. Pick up a copy of the free bi-weekly newspaper Xtra!, available at most shops on the street, for listings of everything the village has to offer.

  7. Allan Gardens

    This
    large park embodies the contradictions of the downtown-eastside: It is
    both grand and gritty. Best explored during the day, the gardens, which
    first opened in 1860, contain a delightful glass-and-metal conservatory
    complex consisting of six greenhouses, each with a different climate
    zone, built in 1910. Inside, the exuberant displays of seasonal and
    permanent greenery and flowers delight the senses.




    Conservatory, Allan Gardens

  8. Toronto’s First Post Office

    This
    working post office and museum opened in 1833 and is the only surviving
    example of a British-era post office in Canada. Here, you can write a
    letter with a quill pen and have it stamped with a distinctive
    cancellation mark: “York-Toronto 1833.” There is also a topographic
    model of 1830s Toronto, period furniture, and 19th-century reproduction
    ink wells and sealing wax. The library, housing an extensive archival
    collection of postal-related materials, is open by appointment only, but
    admission to the museum is free for self-guided tours.

    • 260 Adelaide St E

    • Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat–Sun




    Toronto’s First Post Office

  9. Todmorden Mills Heritage Museum & Art Centre

    The
    collection of late 18th-century buildings that makes up this museum
    complex impart the feel of a historic village. Fine examples of the
    original industrial architecture, such as a paper mill, are peppered
    throughout the site. Two houses – the 1797 Terry Cottage and 1800s
    Helliwell House – have been restored with period furnishings. The 1881
    Don Train Station will delight rail buffs. The Brewery Gallery exhibits
    pieces related to the site. A wildflower preserve bursts with trilliums
    in spring, and trails offer nature lovers lots of wildlife spotting
    opportunities, but be prepared for deep snow in winter.

    • 67 Pottery Rd

    • Museum complex open May–Sep: 11am–4:30pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm Sat–Sun

    • Adm

    • Grounds open year-round




    Todmorden Mills

  10. Don Valley Brickworks

    The
    smokestack is just one of the historic features that remain at this
    once-thriving industrial complex, which opened in 1889 to manufacture
    bricks for local buildings using clay found on site. Some 100 years
    later, the quarry has been returned to nature as a park with ponds and
    meadows .

    • 550 Bayview Ave